Car Seat Expiration Dates: Keep Your Baby Safe

Pay Attention to Expiration Dates: A Tragic Tale

Shawn Stewart Marc and his step-father were driving through Ottawa, Canada, in their grey Chevrolet on a wet and dreary day. Their car was rear-ended, but the accident was considered a minor one. Unfortunately, two-year old Shawn was killed in the accident – a result of severe head trauma. No one else was injured in the accident, which sparked an investigation. The toddler was strapped into a seven year old Alpha-Omega Elite car seat, which was expired.

After the investigation was complete, police determined that inadequate protection to the head area and the expired car seat were aggravating factors in the child’s death.

Appearances Can Be Deceiving

This infant seat appears to be "new," but it is really seven years old. This seat is no longer safe for use - it will have to be destroyed.

Count the Cost: An Expired Car Seat Isn't Worth It.

In a quest to save money, many parents try to “buy used and save the difference.” This idea is wonderful for many baby items: clothing, toys, and a few other infant care items are safe to purchase from garage sales or thrift stores. There is one baby safety item parents should never skimp on: child safety seats for the car.

Every car seat has an expiration date. In general, car seats are no longer safe to use once they are 5 to 6 years old. Nearly every car seat manufacturer stamps an expiration date on the bottom of the car seat.

Please note that all types of car seats have expiration dates: from the rear-facing infant seat to the backless booster seat used with the car’s own seat belt. Be sure to inspect all infant and child seats purchased from craigslist, eBay, garage sales, or thrift stores.

If you come across a car seat at a thrift store or garage sale, check the expiration date to be sure it will not expire during the time period your child will use it. In addition, carefully question the former owner to determine if the car seat has been in a car accident: car seats should be replaced if any significant strain has been placed on the plastic!

Car Seat Expiration Stamp

This car seat has a difficult-to-see expiration date - stamped into the plastic is the warning, "Do not use this car seat after December 2010." Click to enlarge.

Car Seat Manufacturing Date Sticker

The date of manufacture on this car seat is listed as 092304, or September 23, 2004. Click to enlarge.

Where is the Expiration Date Located?

All car seats manufactured after 2003 will have an expiration date placed on the child safety seat. Search the car seat for a sticker on the back, underside, or top of the car seat. The sticker will generally state a date of manufacture, expiration date, model number, and serial number. In some cases, a sticker will not be present. It might have come off due to age, or simply peeled off during cleaning. Most car seats also carry a fabric tag stamped with the expiration date, or have the expiration date molded into the plastic.

The rear-facing infant seat at the right does not have a sticker stating the expiration date. There is also no tag attached to the seat with this information. On the bottom of the car seat, there is an expiration date stamped into the plastic. This is very hard to see, so parents need to inspect used car seats very carefully to locate the expiration date on some models.

If an expiration date cannot be located, a date of manufacture is sufficient. Simply add six years to the date of manufacture: if the car seat is older than six years, do not use it. The car seat at the right has a sticker containing the car seat model information in addition to the stamped expiration date: there is more than one way to verify a car seat's age!

If a date of manufacture and expiration date cannot be found on the used car seat, it is possible to contact the company to determine the general age of the car seat make and model. Do not use any child safety seat which lacks this information - it isn't worth a child's life!

Straps Beak on Expired Car Seat

Why Do Car Seats Expire?

Car seats seem very sturdy. Expensive models may look well cared-for and have a “like-new” appearance. This can be very deceiving, as the plastic material used in infant and child safety seats can degrade over time. Car seats sit inside cars throughout the year, which means they are exposed to temperature extremes. On a 90°F day, the inside of a car will reach 108°F, even with the windows cracked. If the windows are closed, the car can reach 115°F. Likewise, car seats are exposed to sub-zero temperatures in northern climates.

The temperature changes stress the plastic in the car seat frame, and can also cause deterioration of the harness straps. The video at the right demonstrates the weakness in the straps of a ten year old car seat: the straps are so weak, they break easily and the child-sized dummy flies out of the safety seat.

How to Dispose of a Car Seat

Since car seats are only “good” for about six years, parents will need to dispose of used car seats. Currently, there is no universal trade-in system for the seats, so many used infant seats end up in landfills. There are a few other options, however, to prevent all of that plastic from ending up in the local dump.

Try contacting a local car seat safety education program: the program may be able to use the expired car seat in educational programs. Sometimes police departments or local community colleges offer safety courses for parents, and are appreciative for donations (these car seats are never used in a real car, but are used for demonstration purposes only).

Another option is to check the Babies R Us website: the company offers a “car seat trade-in day” every once in a while. This program encompasses many baby items: parents can trade in old cribs, baby swings, and car seats. In exchange, the company offers a discount (in 2011, a 25% off coupon was provided for parents to purchase new baby items).

If donation to a training program or a local trade-in program is not available, the car seat will have to be discarded as garbage. Unfortunately, many people will see a car seat set out with the trash, and pick it up for use. There are many people who are unaware that car seats have expiration dates.

To prevent an unsuspecting person from taking and using the unsafe car seat, consider taking the following actions:

• Cut the harness straps to make the seat unusable.
• Saw the plastic body in half, rendering the seat completely unusable.
• Disguise the car seat by placing it inside a garbage bag.

When You Can't Afford a New Car Seat

Many police departments have a child safety seat distribution program. This helps parents obtain new, safe car seats for their children. It is not worth sacrificing your child’s life or safety for a few dollars saved – be sure to purchase a new car seat or to contact your local police department to find child safety seat distribution programs to obtain a new seat for low (or no) cost.

Source : www.hubpages.com

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Easiest Way to Learn to Drive a Manual Transmission Vehicle

Hey guys! I am here today to teach you the easiest way to drive a manual transmission car. After studying this detailed guide, you will be able to start the car, get it moving, and then upshift into higher gears with ease. Don't get disappointed if you don't get it at first. It took me a while to get used to a stick shift, but it was well worth it!

Why Drive Manual?

So what are the benefits of driving a manual transmission? First, because you control the gear changes yourself, the car can run more economically and efficiently in manual than in automatic. Also, because you control the gear changes yourself, you can accelerate faster than in an automatic, and change gears whenever you want to.

Driving manual or stick-shift will be somewhat difficult at first, but within a week or two of following this guide and practicing, it will become second nature.

My Experience Learning How to Drive A Stick Shift

I had always wanted to drive a stick shift because it seemed very fun and cool. When I got my 2012 Mustang GT with a manual transmission, I was so excited about driving it. I looked up some guides on how to drive a manual car and didn't think it was going to be difficult to learn. How wrong I was. My 412-horsepower and 390-torque Coyote engine was a difficult car to drive. I stalled it left and right.

My problem may have been that all the guides I looked at on the internet were telling me to "slowly roll off the clutch." I was doing just that, but the ride was still jerky. Eventually I learned that you don't need to step on the gas to get the car moving. Depending on the speed at which the engine idles—that is, the speed it runs at when you're not pushing on the gas pedal—just releasing the clutch some will move the car to an extent.

I played with the clutch and got a feel for the friction point or biting point; that is, the point where the car is rolling, but the clutch is asking you to add more gas. At this point, you feel a little resistance, a little vibration from the clutch pedal; the car is asking for enough gas so that it can run when the clutch is fully out.

After incorporating what I had learned with this new-found technique, my first start was the smoothest one yet. I wished that someone had told me this tip earlier, instead of me wasting two days trying to "roll off the clutch."

Video on How to Drive a Manual Car

This video shows you the parts of the car you need to know, though it's a little sketchy on exactly how you let out the clutch pedal and push in the gas pedal.

Step-By-Step: How to Start a Manual Car

Here are the steps for starting up and getting to first gear.

1. Push in the Clutch and Start the Engine

The clutch, of course, is the pedal on the far left.

Make sure you are in a secluded area where you can't hurt anyone. Make sure you have enough space in front of you so you can move at different speeds without running into something. You may stall a few times, but with time you will get it.

To start the car, push the clutch in all the way in, hold it down, and turn the key. Make sure the car is in neutral before releasing the clutch. The neutral slot is the empty space between the gears, represented by the bar in the middle of the "H." To see if you are in neutral, wiggle the stick gently to see if you can move it left and right; if you can, you are in neutral.

Now you are just sitting there with the engine running, doing nothing and going nowhere, which is fine for this first step.

2. With the Clutch In, Move the Stick to First

Move the stick away from the middle of the "H," towards the "1" position

Now that the car is running, make sure your emergency brake (handbrake) is off. Since you are on flat ground, the car won't roll anywhere while you are figuring out what to do.

Now push the clutch in all the way, and put the car into first gear using the gear stick. You'll usually find first gear by pushing the stick left and then away from you. Keep the clutch in, or else you will stall the car!

3. Release the Clutch Till the Car Just Starts to Roll

The tachometer on your dashboard shows how fast the engine is running.

Once you are in first gear, slowly release the clutch until you feel the car just start moving. Get a feel for this biting point because it will make learning to drive manual a lot easier. Practice until you can get to the point quickly.

4. Give it Some Gas

Once you have gotten a feel for the biting point, begin to slowly add some gas by pushing down the gas pedal a little bit. Give it enough gas to move the tachometer needle to like "1" or "2," that is, 1000 to 2000 rpms. If you give too little gas, the car will stall. If you give too much, you begin to burn the clutch, which is no big deal for a beginner, but over time can wear out the clutch.

5. When You Are Ready, Get Off the Clutch

Now that you are giving the car a little bit of gas, don't release the clutch fully just yet. Release it when you can feel the gears engage; it's a vibration you can sense through the sole of your foot. Once you get to that point, you can release the clutch, and drive around without using the clutch, just as you would in an automatic transmission car.

Congratulations! You have started a manual car! I found this technique of looking for the biting point made it easier for me to learn manual. Before, I tried the old-fashioned tip of "rolling off the clutch slowly," but never had a smooth startup. Once I came across this method, I learned how to drive very quickly! I believe this is truly the easiest way to drive a manual car.

I Stalled the Car! Now What?!

Calm down. The car is fine, you didn't hurt it. Just push the clutch back in and turn the key, and that will start the car back up. Make sure the car is in neutral, and go through the steps again.

So why did you stall? You put the car into first gear, but you didn't give the car enough gas to move. It wanted to move, but there wasn't enough gas, so it stalled. Whenever you feel like the car is going to stall, you can just push the clutch back in.

How to Shift Into Higher Gears

Shifting, in my opinion, is a lot easier than starting to move the car. Look at the "H" pattern on the gearshift knob to learn the different gears. You shift from 1, to 2, to 3, to 4, to 5, and then to 6, if you have a sixth gear.

How do you know when to shift? You can either look at the rpms or the speed you are going at. You should usually shift at 2.5k to 3k rpms. The speed to shift gears varies with the car you are driving, so look at the instruction manual to determine the speeds. The speed for each gear isn't as important for upshifting as it is for downshifting. Eventually you will be able to tell when to shift by the way the engine sounds and feels.

How do you shift into the higher gears? It is pretty much the same procedure as starting the car up, except it is much easier.

Let's say you are in first gear going into second. Follow these procedures.

1. Put the clutch in, and then move the stick to second. On most cars, to go from first to second, you pull the stick towards you, that is, down to the bottom leg of the "H."
2. Slowly release the clutch to the biting point, and then add a little bit of gas.
3. Let the clutch all the way out and continue driving around.

Going from second to third and then fourth gear is the same process, and even easier. In order to make a totally smooth shift, you have to balance the gas and the clutch very well. Don't worry, this comes with practice.

This is my guide to the easiest way to drive a manual transmission. Keep practicing and practicing and you will get it! Have fun!

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Five Signs Your Car Battery Is Dead (or About To Die)

$99 car battery at Walmart

Your vehicle’s battery is like its heart; without that battery, your vehicle wouldn't have the power to start moving or do anything else. So it's important to understand at least a little bit about your battery, and to know the most common signs of a battery that needs to be replaced.

About Your Battery

The typical battery, in vehicles made in 1952 and later, is a “wet-cell” battery, a plastic cube containing sulfuric acid and lead, with two terminals coming out of the top or the side. This short guide should be reliable unless you have an aftermarket battery with special needs, such as a dry cell battery, or a hybrid like a Prius.

Here’s some general wisdom about your average battery.

• Batteries normally have a maximum life expectancy of two or three years, even if manufacturers say they will last five years or more. If anyone sells you a “super long life” battery, keep your receipt and get a warranty. Especially if you use your battery for a lot of accessories (things other than starting your car) it’s unlikely to last as long as promised.

• Optimally, you should replace your battery every two and a half years or so—before you have problems.
• Your battery needs some particular help doing its job starting your car: it needs help from your alternator, your starter, the solenoid, the battery terminals (which need to be clean and free from corrosion), and its own cables (which need to be intact). Though as I argue below, the problem is very often just an old battery, I’ll admit it can be something else.
• An old battery, even if it doesn't show any obvious signs of being old, can affect your vehicle in negative ways that will slowly add up to a big repair bill. That’s why I recommend replacing your battery before you have problems with it.
• Your ordinary battery doesn't do so well in extremely cold weather, which may be why you have to pump the gas, or turn the key back to prime the fuel pump, or do a little dance to get the truck or car started on chilly mornings.

My Message: Check Out the Battery

In my years as a mechanic, one thing I have learned is that an old battery or loose battery cables can cause really big problems that make it appear that something complicated is wrong with your vehicle. Even experienced mechanics and DIY'ers are sometimes stumped by a simple problem with a battery past its prime, until they realize they've ruled out all other potential problems (and then some!). That's one of those "d’oh!" moments, when you realize you could have saved yourself an hour of diagnostic and repair time, just by checking the battery and its cables.

Sign 1: Engine Cranks But Doesn’t Start

If your engine cranks or turns over when you turn the key, but it won't start, I say the most likely culprit is your battery. It might be your starter, it might be something else, but 94% of the time, it's really your battery, even if the car is cranking fairly vigorously. Even if an ammeter (current-measuring device) says the battery is good, it can still be a few volts shy of what your vehicle needs to run efficiently.

When you find yourself with a car that won't crank hard enough to start, you'll want to use jumper cables or a jump-starter box to get your vehicle running again.

Once your car is running again, disconnect the cable, then let your car run for 30 minutes so that your alternator can charge up your battery again.

After that half-hour, when you are stopped at home or in a safe place, do a little test. After you turn the engine off, wait at least a minute, then start it again. Wait another minute and start it another time or two, to make sure that you won't be stranded with a dead battery at the gas station or wherever you go next.

Now, at this point, most batteries will have have charged themselves up from the running of the alternator and be fine for a day or two. Do NOT take that time for granted. Use it to hunt down a new battery and replace the old one BEFORE you end up stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Sign 2: No Crank, No Start, No Lights

This situation is pretty straightforward to diagnose; it’s an even stronger indication that your battery is at fault. Your battery powers all the accessories and lights in your car, especially when the alternator is not running. So if your car just seems to be completely void of all signs of life, then your battery is the first thing you should be looking at.

And be aware that in this situation, where your vehicle doesn't even have the juice to work the lights or turn over the engine, it could be a combination problem involving your alternator was well as your battery.

If the car won’t crank or start but the headlights do work, that may indicate some more interesting problem, maybe the starter or a mechanical problem in the engine.

Sign 3: One Day It Starts Fine, the Next Day It Won't

If starting is an intermittent problem for you, it's a sign that either 1) your battery terminals are loose, broken, corroded, or calcified or 2) you have a parasitic draw (your power is being drained by some gizmo that's on when it's supposed to be off, or by some wire that’s touching something it shouldn’t).

Check out the battery cables first, as they are usually the prime suspect and are easier to check yourself.

Make sure the cables fit firmly and securely on the battery posts. There should bezero play in them; you shouldn't be able to wiggle them even an inch when they are tight. Also make sure that the cables going to the terminals are not frayed or falling apart; if they are, replace them as soon as possible.

In this video, Eric the Car Guy shows you loose and corroded battery cables, and how they can cause a drop in power to the starter.

Parasitic draws from sources other than the battery cables are fairly common. Suspect a parasitic draw if the car starts right up if you drive it several days in a row, but then fails to start if you let it sit for a day. To investigate parasitic draw issues, see your favorite mechanic, or look at the last section of this article, and get ready to have fun with an ammeter or voltmeter, as these are the tools you'll need to check your alternator, accessory lights, fuses, radio, alarm, and all other components that might be draining your battery in secret.

Sign 4: Cold Cranking Is Hard Work

If you look at your battery, somewhere on it you should find a label stating a number for "Cold Cranking Amps.” Those amps are responsible for giving your engine enough energy to get started the first time of the day, generally referred to as "cold cranking.”

Thus it’s not surprising that an early sign that your battery is running out of life—a sign most people miss—is that you are regularly putting extra energy into starting the vehicle. You know what I'm talking about. You get in your car, you tap the gas pedal, you turn the key a few times, and all you get for the first few minutes is lots of weak rotations of the engine. After you’ve all but decided the car is going to make you late for work, it suddenly starts up and sustains an idle.

Now, what I mean by "regularly" is having to do this more than three times per week. That would be a sign that your battery is giving notice and getting ready to retire.

But keep in mind that if it’s really cold out, it’s fairly normal for your vehicle to hang back and start only with difficulty. Not only is gas hard to vaporize and oil gooey when it’s cold, but batteries put out only half their normal power when the temperature is 0^o F (and only a third of their power when it's 32^o F). So in the cold you may have to be patient. But if your car doesn’t go back to a reliable “cold” crank when the weather warms up, you’ll want to get a new battery within the next three months.

One more possibility worth noting is that your battery was never big enough for your vehicle in the first place. Even a well-seasoned mechanic has gotten the wrong battery for a specific vehicle, causing a wild-goose-chase investigation of a mysterious starting problem. Make sure you look up your car online, or ask in an auto parts store, to find out what level of Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) and voltage your car needs to start and run properly.

Sign 5: You've Jumped It a Lot

I have a simple hard-and-fast rule that I follow when it comes to having to jump your battery. No matter what reason you had to jump the battery—the battery was old, or mabye the starter, fuel pump, or alternator were bad, or maybe you left your headlights on or your door ajar all night, or you ran out of gas—the rule is this:

If you have to jump your vehicle more than three times in a single week, it's time to replace your battery.

You would be surprised, but even a fairly new battery can turn into a dud really quickly if it has been jumped more than three times in a week. Using a jump box or jumper cables is hard on your battery. They work by figuratively "shocking" your battery.

Now, you might think I'm crazy about replacing the battery after such a low jump count, but hear me out. One of the most common things I see happening in relation to vehicle battery problems, is that the driver or mechanic will assume that because the battery wasn't old, or wasn't the specific culprit for the battery draining itself, they don’t need to expend time or money getting a new battery. Then, when they try this and that to diagnose the problem, they keep jumping the battery until finally the alternator and starter go bad, leaving you with a need for an new alternator, starter, AND battery.

Save yourself the headache and just replace the battery if you've had to jump the battery more than three times in a week. You won't regret it.

When Will You Replace Your Battery?

I'm glad you've taken the time to read all the way through this article and have started to consider when you will next replace your battery. Down below, I have some bonus advice about diagnosing a parasitic draw.

How to Diagnose a Parasitic Draw

Because so many battery issues are caused by a parasitic draw that is slowly draining away the life of the battery, I thought you might like to see some videos that can help you finally kill that parasite!

Method 1: Use a Multimeter

As in the videos below, the fastest and most efficient way of finding your parasitic draw is to use a multimeter. Even the most inexperienced diagnostician can do this test in minutes to find out if you have a draw. Just make sure the vehicle is off, the car's negative battery terminal is disconnected, and the car doors are shut and other accessories turned off. Set your multimeter to 10 amps DC, touch the positive lead to your disconnected negative battery cable, and touch the ground lead to your negative battery post. If your meter shows anything above 50 milliamps, you have a parasitic draw. Watch the first video below to find out how to identify the fuse or relay that is eating away your battery, plus some possible quick fixes.

Eric the Car Guy Hunts Down a Parasitic Draw

Using a Multimeter to Find a Parasitic Draw From the Radio Circuit

Method 2: Use a Fuse Checker

On a pre-1985 vehicle, you can use a small probe called a fuse checker to look for draws. It's not as accurate as a multimeter, but will work just as well at finding out what is still on when your car is supposed to be off. This method can also work on newer vehicles if you don't have access to a multimeter. To use this method, simply make sure that the car is off, the door pins are all held down in the "closed" position, and your negative battery cable is disconnected. 

Have more questions?

Thank you to everyone who has been so wonderful and left so many great comments and questions. Please, if you need more immediate information or advice and you aren't able to check in with your mechanic, feel free to email me directly at Acceleratedauto @ gmail.com

Source : www.hubpages.com

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Honda “Check Engine” Light: What Could Be the Problem?

Your “Check Engine” light comes on when your car’s onboard computer (or PCM, Powertrain Control Module) records some kind of problem. This onboard computer runs your car so that it has optimum fuel economy and low emissions. The PCM creates a code indicating what part or system malfuntioned (electrical system, oxygen sensors, and so on). Your tech (or you yourself) can get the code from the vehicle and look up its meaning (for example, here).

In the meantime, you’re probably wondering: what are the possibilities? Is there something going on in your car or in your life that triggered this “check engine” situation? Where should a mechanic start looking to find the problem?

Ten Questions to Ask if Your "Check Engine” Light Comes On:

1. Has your car been in the shop for service recently?

2. Have you fueled your car recently?

3. Did you possibly overfill your fuel tank?

4. Have you installed any new electronic devices recently?

5. Did your “check engine” light come on after driving through a deep puddle?

6. Do you have excessive humidity in your car caused by a water leak?

7. Do you live in a rural area where there are lots of critters?

8. Are other warning lights illuminated on the dash?

9. Did your car sit for a long period of time without anyone driving it?

10. Were you the last one to drive your car?

And Two Bonus Questions:

1. Is the car running normally?

2. Is the "check engine" light flashing?

What Light Are We Talking About?

Don’t confuse your "check engine" light with your maintenance reminder (a light that goes on automatically to remind you it’s time for a routine service). If you’re not sure, check the index in your owner’s manual, under “warning lights.”

"Check engine" light: at left, with a yellow engine-shaped icon (2011 Honda Pilot)

This small yellow light (labeled "maintenance indicator") is not the "check engine" light (1991 Honda Accord)

Should You Panic? Ask Your Two Bonus Questions First

Bonus question 1. Is the car running normally? If your car is running normally, and you have no problem driving it, the problem is not so severe that you need to panic. Of course you should not ignore the light; it is warning you of some problem with the emissions system. When the light is on, your car runs on default parameters, not optimized to reduce emissions and increase mileage, and so you won’t get the gas mileage the car is designed to get. Just call your mechanic or dealer to make an appointment within a reasonable amount of time.

Bonus question 2. Is the "check engine" light flashing? If it's flashing, it means you have a serious problem and you really should not be driving your car. It's flashing because it's saying “STOP!!! Hey Look At Me!!!” It’s saying your catalytic converter is being damaged. It’s probably a good idea to call a tow truck at this point; you don’t want to add to the cost of any repairs that are going to be needed.

Now a Closer Look At Each of the Ten Questions

1. Has your car been serviced recently? If your car has been in the shop recently for service, it’s quite possible the technician has caused your "check engine" light problem. Sometimes a technician will forget to reinstall a connector to a sensor, or not snap the connector back together completely. Or he or she may knock a connector loose while doing a minor service.

On older Hondas, the oxygen sensor is directly below the oil filter, so a technician removing the oil filter for a routine oil change might spill oil onto the oxygen sensor. It’s just possible, though not common, that a technician wiping oil off the sensor damaged it somehow.

On this 1991 Honda Accord, you can see how the oxygen sensor (little rat-tailed item) is located directly below the oil filter. You can imagine how easy it is to dump oil on it.

2. Have you fueled your car recently? If you didn’t tighten the fuel cap enough (or forgot to put it on altogether!), this could cause your "check engine" light to come on. All Honda fuel caps have a ratcheting device built into the cap to achieve a good seal and keep you from over-tightening the cap. When tightening your fuel cap, be sure to turn it enough to hear at least three clicks; that ensures the proper torque was applied. If your check engine light is on, simply check your fuel cap to make sure it is turned three clicks.

3. Did you possibly overfill your fuel tank? If you’re one of those people who like to top off the fuel tank, you need to break that habit, especially if you own a newer Honda. When the gas pump shuts off automatically, the tank is as full as it needs to be. To keep gasoline fumes out of the atmosphere, modern United States cars are required to trap the fumes and recycle them into the engine to be burned. Overfilling the tank can spill fuel into into tiny vacuum lines and filters, which in turn can clog emission devices (like the "evap canister" being replaced in the three do-it-yourself videos at the end of this article). Soaking these devices in gasoline will cause the "check engine" light to come on. Replacing the damaged parts could be costly, but the time spent diagnosing the problem could be even costlier.

4. Have you installed any new electronic devices lately, or had them installed by a professional? Everyone likes all the new gadgets available for cars these days, like back-up cameras, thunder-booming stereos, remote car starters, high-intensity-discharge headlights, and rear entertainment systems, to name a few. It’s just possible that the person installing your device may have blown a fuse, or worse, may have tapped into the wrong wire and caused that dang "check engine" light to come on again.

Check to see that all electronics in the vehicle are working properly (e.g. dash light, 12-volt power supply, interior lights). If everything is working properly, I would either test all the fuses (using a test light or a voltage meter is the fastest way to do that) or return the vehicle to the person who did the work.

5. Did your "check engine" light come on after driving through a deep puddle?This isn’t common but it does happen. After driving for a while on the highway, your exhaust can get extremely hot; if you then happen to drive through a deep puddle, it is possible for water to cool the oxygen sensor too quickly and crack the material inside the sensor. The oxygen sensor is located under the vehicle, usually in or near the catalytic converter where the temperature can exceed 600 degrees. If this sounds like your scenario, take your car to the dealer or your local mechanic.

You can see both oxygen sensors, front and rear, one in the front pipe before the catalytic converter and the other is in the center of the catalytic converter. If you hit a puddle deep enough, you could actually submerge the sensors.

6. Do you have excessive humidity in your car caused by a water leak? Water on the front or back carpet in your car will often be coming from the front of the car somewhere; water flows towards the back because of acceleration, and because the floor is tapered towards the rear of the vehicle. If the water is only visible on the rear carpet, the leak may be in the rear of the vehicle.

The most common cause of a water leak is the windshield; sometimes a newly replaced windshield will leak.

If a leaky windshield drips water on an ECU (Engine Control Unit) fuse box or any other control unit, this willl cause a ECU failure and your “check engine” light will come on. Water is very damaging to all electronic devices (just drop your smart phone in water and see what happens).

7. Do you live in a rural area where there are lots of critters? Critters can cause all sorts of problems in cars, from horrible smells to chewed wires. If you live or work in an area where mice, rats, chipmunks. or squirrels can get into your car, they can wreak havoc on your cars’ electrical systems. Given the chance, critters will build nests and store food for the winter, and for some reason they like to chew wires. In fact, some car manufacturers assemble wire harnesses wrapped with mouse-deterrent tape, no kidding. It’s not completely effective but it’s a start. If a critter chews the right wires in your vehicle, it will cause the “check engine” light to come on, and an expensive bill! Replacing a wire harness is daunting and time-consuming.

Signs of critters in your vehicle are:

• bad odors
• acorns and nuts (or dry dog food) stored in the engine compartment or glove box
• chewed carpeting
• loud noises when the heating or air conditioning fans come on. Critters are notorious for building nests inside blower motor assemblies, causing all kinds of problems.

Rodent deterrent tape for wire harnesses

8. Are other warning lights illuminated on the dash? In some cases, a failure in another part or system can cause your "check engine" light to come on. Multiple warning lights illuminated on the dash don't necessarily mean multiple problems, so don't panic. The lights could all be caused by a single problem: For example, if your alternator is not charging, or if it’s over-charging, it could cause low or high voltage in the system, which would cause many lights to come on.

9. Did your car sit for a long time without anyone driving it? Cars that sit for a long period of time are susceptible to a plethora of problems. Critters move in, batteries go dead, tires go flat, brake rotors become rusted and cause a pulsation when applying the brakes, pulleys rust and cause belts to squeak, and the list goes on. If you car sat for a while, your "check engine" light could come on because a sensor or solenoid is stuck, or for other reasons. Have it checked out by an honest mechanic; they are out there, you just have to find them.

10. Were you the last one to drive your car? If you were not the last one to drive your car and the "check engine" light is on, you need to start asking questions. Sometimes family members or friends who borrow your car spill soda or coffee on the console without telling you. On some Hondas, the ECM/PCM (engine control unit/powertrain control unit) is located below the center of the console, and sugary drinks can destroy this expensive control unit.

Write Down the Code

If you have a buddy, friend, uncle, or cuz that can check the code because they have a scan tool, make sure you write down the code, because if you decide to erase it, you’ll want to know what it was when the light comes back on (and if it’s an issue other than a loose gas cap, the problem will usually come back). It’s good practice for you, and good information to give your mechanic.

Buying a Scan Tool to Interpret "Check Engine" Codes

If you're going to buy a scan tool, buy one that will last for years. Vehicles are only getting more sophisticated each year, so plan for the future. The OBD2 system covers 1996 and later cars (the OBD1 system that covers older ones may be included, depending on the device). I recommend looking for these four time- and money-saving features:

1. A display that includes a description of the cause of the warning light, as well as the code. This saves you time from having to look up the description that goes with the numerical code in a book or on the computer.
2. LED display for state emissions readiness check and drive cycle verification. This feature will let you know if it will pass an emissions test.
3. Battery backup that will keep the code in the device after you disconnect the scan tool, so you can review it and analyze it away from the car (even if you forgot to write down the code)
4. A USB cable to update the information in your scan tool from your own computer. If you can't update the scan tool, it will be obsolete in three years.

DIY Repairs to Fix Evap-Canister-Related "Check Engine" Codes

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Negotiating Price: How Much Will a Car Dealer Come Down?

Nowadays, when it comes time to buy a vehicle, we really do have a lot working in our favor, and a lot of resources at our disposal. There are multiple websites we can use to browse prices, deals, factory rebates, regional discounts—the whole gamut. When buying a vehicle, most consumers can be pretty well informed. But can they deal? Can you wheel and deal with a pro?

Even armed with the Kelly Blue Book values and the Edmunds "True Market Value," and having looked at a million deals online and in the classifieds, when it comes down to it, and you're sitting face to face with a professional car salesperson who haggles every single day, multiple times a day—do you have the gall to haggle with him?

When he says "I'm sorry, but that's what the car's worth," do you have what it takes to say, “You’re wrong?” I'm inclined to think that many do not.

Negotiating Down From the MSRP

You will inevitably wonder: What is a good price for this vehicle? What is a reasonable offer?

Suppose the vehicle’s MSRP—manufacturer’s suggested retail price—is $35,000, and I offer $25,000, what might happen? Are they going to laugh in my face, take away the beverage they graciously offered me, and have security escort me from the dealership?

Probably not. They probably won't offer you a $10,000 discount either, but they probably won't kick you off the lot.

Negotiating Makes Me Feel Funny. Isn't the Price on the Car the Actual Price?

It shouldn't. And, no, it's not.

Purchasing a new vehicle is not just a big expense, but an investment, and it is definitely a negotiable endeavor.

Certain purchases are non-negotiable. Like when you walk into Walmart, you can’t walk up to the guy and say, "Hey, I know that TV has a $2,000 price tag, but I'll give you $1,500 for it." They will simply say “No.” and let you walk. Same thing at the supermarket, and so on. They know someone will be along in the next minute paying the posted price.

But when you're spending tens of thousands of dollars on something, you better believe you should be negotiating, and they DO NOT want to let you walk.

What is the Function of a Car Salesman? What Is His Goal?

Many people think his goal is to sell vehicles. Wrong!

Selling vehicles is a given at a car or truck dealership. The salesperson wants more than that.

The goal of the car or truck salesman is to make the dealership the most profit possible, while also satisfying the customer. This might seem like a subtle point, but the distinction is important.

Conversely, what is the purpose of the buyer? What is his goal? Is it to acquire a new vehicle? No. That's a given. The buyer's goal is to negotiate the most favorable deal on the vehicle possible.

"Profit" is not a dirty word. Remember that. Don't be bitter, or feel disenfranchised, or get upset that the dealership is going to make money off your purchase, and that the salesman is going to benefit from your sale. Be happy, because it’s quite possible that you can get a good deal, and at the same time the dealership can make money, and the salesman can make a living. There can be a real balance here.

"Excessive profit" is definitely a dirty word. Excessive profit takes equity away from the buyer. No matter what, you want to avoid negative equity as much as possible.

I'm sure many of you have heard, or will hear, from a salesman, that your new vehicle is "an investment". They will use that word “investment” as a way to persuade you to purchase certain upsells, like warranties, roadside assistance packages, leather seats, accessories, insurance, and all sorts of other stuff. And a new vehicle can absolutely be an investment, for several reasons, but it’s a low-quality investment if you pay too much for it: if you get taken on the purchase price, gutted on your trade-in, and wheeled all the way into the driver's seat by paying MSRP for a new vehicle and accepting the KBB value for your trade. Read on.

What Is MSRP, Anyway?

MSRP is an acronym that stands for Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price. This number is decided by the manufacturer—NOT the dealer.

The MSRP serves as a starting price for negotiations. Sometimes the dealer will post an "Invoice" price for the vehicle underneath the MSRP and use this as a selling point.

An exchange like the following is common ...

"Look at the invoice price," says Frank, of Bayside Toyota. "We're only making a few hundred dollars selling you this car at this price, and plus, you're getting almost one thousand dollars off MSRP."

"Oh," says Sally, as she fondles her hair nervously. "That's not too bad. I guess you can't really do much better than that, right?"

Frank smiles, thinking to himself, Excellent. We're done negotiating."Exactly. You know you're getting a good deal, and we've got to make a little something on the vehicle ..."

What Sally doesn't know is that Bayside Toyota gets a $2,000 rebate from the manufacturer every time they sell a vehicle like this. Plus, the Southeast Division of Toyota Dealerships rewards Bayside Toyota with another $3,000 of dealer cash incentive each time they sell a vehicle like this. Plus, this sale puts Bayside one vehicle closer to their corporate-mandated quota and dealer bonus check. Plus, they charge a $599.99 dealer fee (or something similar) on top of that.

Even at invoice price, the dealership might have anywhere between $2,000 and $4,000 dollars of profit to work with on a new vehicle. So imagine their margin at MSRP.

Strategies for Negotiating for a Car or Truck

You need strategies, because they have lots of strategies for how to sell to you. Some salesmen are highly trained salesmen, others are natural salesmen, and others are just going through the motions to feed their kids, but in general, salespeople have experience, knowledge, and a LOT of tricks of the trade.

What do you have? It better be more than jeans, a t-shirt, and some crumpled notes stuffed in your front pocket!

Here’s your plan:

1. Use the Internet

• Shop your vehicle on the various consumer sites
• Know what vehicle you want
• Know the MSRP
• Know the various options you want, which ones are most important, and what they cost (roughly)
• Find enthusiast forums for the vehicle you're about to purchase, join the forum, tell them what you're doing, and ask for tips and hints. You'd be amazed what people in these places know about the industry!
• Research your old car too, your trade-in. Know ALL THREE Kelly Blue Book values: Private Party, Dealer Trade-In, and Retail.

2. Know What You Can Spend

This seems like an obvious one, but whatever you do, DO NOT show up at the dealer without having firmly decided, yourself, "what your monthly payment could be.” This is a bear trap, and you will lose your leg.

3. Have Your Money

Deal with your own bank or credit union when it comes to financing. DO NOT go through the dealer. They use the terms of the loan as a bargaining trick, a price slider to confuse you, and in many cases they will mark up the interest rate they get from the lender.

Show up at the dealership with a Pre-Authorized Draft (a blank check from your bank, basically) and know that you are in charge.

Why are you in charge? Because you have the money.

I can just hear it now ... “But they have the car I want!” No. They have a car, a car that you want, and that they really want to sell you.

4. Be Upfront About Some Things

They will play psychological games with you. They're sizing you up, trying to figure you out, and trying to get you emotional about your purchase. Stay cooperative and down-to-earth. Let them know your intentions, and be honest about some facts. Tell them your name, and what you're looking for, and answer any general questions they might have.

• For example, "I am going to buy a Toyota Camry today," is an honest statement. It clearly shows your intentions, and answers an unspoken question the salesman has: Is this person buying, or just shopping? Think about it. If a salesman is trying to make a profit, and he thinks he is getting shopped, are is he going to offer his best discounts? Probably not. He offers his best deals when he knows a purchase is going to happen.
• "I'm working with several dealers right now, and I just want to be upfront about that. And, so far, I'm enjoying working with you." The first half of this statement had better be true, or I'm going to be VERY disappointed in you. If the second half of this statement is not true, do not buy from this dealership!

5. But Don't Show Your Hand

• Don’t get swept away right off. Supposing he shows you the vehicle of your dreams. It's perfect, it’s amazing. You think, “I NEED IT!” But what should you say? Something like, “OK, I see it comes with leather seats . . . that's pretty nice. The color is okay, not the exact color I was thinking. Not bad." Do yourself a favor and do NOT gush over the vehicle and beg to drive it. Wait for the salesman to offer the test-drive. You want to appear logical, calculating, and in control the whole time. Someone who is emotional is more inclined to throw logic to the winds. And they know this, and feed off of it.
• Be ready for this question, which they will definitely ask: "So what are you looking to spend?" Here, you have the advantage, because you know the answer. You know what you can spend, and you know what you want to spend. And they have nothing; that's why they’re asking the question. So don’t give up all you have unnecessarily.. If you can spend $25,000 to $30,000—the former being what you’d like to spend, and the latter pretty much breaking the bank—tell the salesman something like this. “Well, I really like this model, and this year, but this [other] model has this option that I really like. And you know, I'd like to come in right around twenty-two or twenty-three, depending on options and availability."

Write down what they say, every time it changes.

6. All the While, Watch the Numbers Carefully

Be ready with a pad of paper, and the whole time you’re in that cubicle working that deal, write down the numbers they tell you. You need to know the current figure of every number any time anything changes. That’s so they cannot inflate your trade allowance, and stuff it into the MSRP or the purchase price. Here are the typical numbers you need to be tracking:

• MSRP (generally includes options, processing, and destination fees)
• Discounts
• Rebates
• Purchase price
• Trade allowance (their offer on your trade)
• Dealer fee
• Tax
• Title and registration fees
• Down payment
• Balance

7. Be Confident

There are a lot of dealers, and that black, sleek, leather-trimmed V8 out there, with the word "Limited" badged on the back in chrome, is probably one out of 1,000 vehicles EXACTLY like it, that can be bought or sold at many other dealerships, besides the one that you're at.

If the deal is not going well ... walk out. Period.

So Here’s How You Cut the Deal

You just got back from the test drive. It was incredible. You could feel the engine rumbling in your belly. Just the fragrance of the barely-worn leather upholstery intoxicates you with anticipation.

The salesman looks at you. "So what do you think?"

You say, "It drives nice. I like this little feature, and this little feature, but I saw the sticker price. We're not really at my number yet."

This is when the "what-if's" start. The dealer looks at you. "Well, what if I can take $1,500 off that price? Would that help?"

"That's a start. I brought some notes, let's take a look at some figures."

Their first offer is just that. Their second offer is just that. It's the third offer, the fourth offer, and the stop-you-from-walking-out-the-door offer that you're trying to get to.

Use options to your advantage. They will try and get closer to your number by offering you less of a vehicle in some way, and unless your number is ridiculous, this is not an acceptable solution. You’ll say,"Well, I like this number we’re at, but this model doesn't have this and that, and your offer on my trade is a little low."

Get what you want for your trade, but don't be unreasonable. Since you’ve researched all three Kelly Blue Book values for your trade, you have a good idea what it’s worth.

Then he'll start throwing the what-if's out there again. What if I can throw in the DVD player, and the fancy tires, what if I give you X amount more for your trade. Would we have a deal then?

Don't say yes. Say, "We'd be closer."

He's going to ask "What is it going to take to earn your business today?" and at this point, after a few offers, a few demands, and a few counter-offers, you probably know what it would take to get you to pull the trigger—so tell him. Make him work for it.

"OK. I did it," says the salesman as he comes back from his brief meeting with the Manager. "We can throw in this bell, and that whistle, get it in that color, and give you this for your trade-in, but only if we have a commitment from you, right now."

Now you're almost at the end of the deal. You both know you're a couple turns of the screw away from a deal, and that's when you drop the competition bomb. "Well, I like where we're at here. I like the vehicle. This is a pretty good offer, I've made my notes” (and meanwhile you are actually doing that), “but like I said before, I'm working with a couple other dealers and this was my first stop on the list. So I need to at least see what they have to offer."

He suspects the other dealers are going to offer the same thing, but go that tiny bit further to make their deal better. So he's going to go that one step further himself, and sweeten the deal to keep you from walking. He's going to get up and leave again, and come back with a slightly better deal. This is the "closer.” This is as far as they will go, most likely. They will ask for a commitment.

If you like this last figure, then say, "Go back to your manager. Get a commitment from him, on this number (circle the number), with this trade figure, and these options, and if he says 'yes' we have a deal." This last request is insurance.

He'll come back with the deal you want.

So There It Is

When I started out on my own quest for a new vehicle, I not only researched the vehicle, but the salesmen, the dealerships, and the negotiating process—just like you're doing now. Research is worthwhile. It helped me seal an excellent deal.

I hope this review helps! It only scratches the surface of the techniques, strategies, and scenarios that could arise But I know I asked myself a lot of these questions, and the big one was "How much can I really get a dealer to come off his asking price without losing credibility and sounding stupid?"

The answer? See above : )

Be peaceful on your way,

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